09-07-26 General Conditions & Climbing Information

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Greetings Adventurers,

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Daily avalanche forecasts are coming back at you come December! Is anyone thinking about winter yet? The days are getting shorter and we are starting to think about snow. Forecasters will be attending the International Snow Science Workshop in Whistler, B.C. this Fall to get tuned up. This is the premier workshop of the industry.
The Everitt Memorial Highway (EMH) is open to the end of the road at Old Ski bowl
Panther Meadows campground is OPEN
All Wilderness trailheads are OPEN, fully accessible and stocked with summit passes, wilderness permits and wag-bags.
Please put in the extra effort to keep your public lands clean and recreate responsibly. Leave no trace!
Need help trip planning? Give us a call in the office at 530-926-9614. Leave a short message and we will call you back asap

******Mt Shasta Web Cam LIVE LOOK!******

Don't take Mount Shasta lightly. Despite being only 15 minutes off the Interstate, it's a real mountain with real hazards. It can kill you, even the easiest route. While often a friendly snow climb, the mountain can raise its hackles, usually due to weather, poor timing and/or poor position. You need to recognize mountain hazards and be honest with your skills and abilities. The lower half of the mountain is mostly friendly terrain. The upper half is game on. Rescue is always possible, but not always when you want it. Weather, location and time of day are key factors that contribute to a timely rescue. Be prepared. An ice axe, 12-point crampons, helmet, avalanche beacon, shovel and probe are minimum equipment necessary if snow is on the ground. Proper clothing is also essential. Sometimes a small injury can be a big problem if you don't have the clothes to stay warm and wait for rescue. Hypothermia is a legit concern. Take the top 3,000 feet of the mountain seriously.

WEATHER: As always, check the weather before you climb. Click here for the Bunny Flat Trailhead point forecast and here for the Mount Shasta Recreational forecast. The mountain can create its own weather. Cloud caps, lenticulars, spaceships...whatever you want to call them, can shround the upper mountain on what may seem like a clear, blue sky day. Once you gain the summit plateau, it is easy to become lost in the clouds and accidentally descend the wrong side of the mountain. It happens every year, and can result in lengthy SAR missions. Always carry navigation tools...doesn't matter what you use; know how to use it...and the bottom line here...don't climb into a whiteout!

Top mountain hazards to consider:

Icy Surfaces, Slip and Fall - The lower half of the mountain is pretty friendly terrain. The upper half is the meat and potatoes. Long, sliding falls on hard surfaces don't turn out well. It's essential to carry an ice axe, crampons and helmet...and know how to use them. Practice self-arrest on a slope of non-consequence before taking on bigger terrain. Self-arrest is a move that needs to happen FAST. Once you are up to speed, it's very difficult to stop. Click here for an introductory video on how to self arrest.
Poor Weather - climbers ascend into white-out conditions and become lost on the upper mountain. Carry navigation equipment just in case, but first and foremost, don't climb into a white-out!
Rock and ice fall - Ice fall is most common in the early spring when the mountain sheds it's winter coat. Any rime ice you see plastered on exposed rocks will fall onto climbers below. Wear a helmet! Later in the season, rock fall becomes more common as snow melts and loose rock becomes exposed. It's a simple equation...as snow melts, chances for rockfall increase
Avalanches - Pay attention to any recent storm snow, as well as the days after when wind can move snow around very efficiently. It doesn't have to be snowing for their to be avalanche danger. We always advise carrying an avalanche beacon, shovel and probe for any adventures with snow on the ground. Should you choose otherwise, at least carry a shovel for snow camping.

One of the best skills to have in the mountains is flexibility! Conditions can change daily. Be honest with your skills and abilities. Plan and prepare properly. Be willing to turn around if you're not feeling it. Pick good partners. Don't get summit fever!

As always, feel free to give us a call to help plan your Mount Shasta adventure. There is something for everyone!

Conditions Update

9-7-26

WEATHER:

Last week’s storm (9/2 to 9/3) brought the return of winter-like conditions to Mount Shasta. Click here to see a webcam of the mountain. The Old Ski Bowl weather station (7,600 feet) recorded over 2 inches of rain with snow levels above about 8,500 feet. With the new snowfall, conditions on the upper mountain have changed substantially (see ‘Route Conditions’ below).

Standard weather reminders: Always check the weather forecast before your trip and monitor for changing conditions as you climb. Don't let warm and mild trailhead conditions lure you into complacency. Up higher, cold temps, strong wind, clouds and other types of weather can create hazardous conditions. Avoid getting caught in a whiteout or climbing into deteriorating weather. Have the courage to turn around if things don't feel right.

As we move into late summer, it’s that time of year when the mountain begins to have a little more spice. The days are getting shorter; temperatures are getting colder and storms are becoming more likely. User beware as we trend toward winter.

ROUTE CONDITIONS:

Last week’s winter weather has increased the hazard of climbing Mount Shasta and made for poor climbing conditions. As of 9/7, expect patchy snow coverage beginning around 9,000 - 9,500 feet with increasing coverage at higher elevations. Exposed and partially buried rocks are common in the shallow snowpack, but there is more than enough coverage for a slip and fall in areas that were previously snow free. Anticpate firm, icy surfaces, punchy snow, rimefall/rockfall and slick rocks. A full mountaineering kit is required– an ice axe, crampons, helmet and the ability to use them well.

While good climbing conditions are a thing of the past, it's still possible to climb select routes. The best late season route for most people is the Clear Creek route; however, the recent snow has significantly changed climbing conditions on this route, resulting in slick and potentially icy surfaces on previously dry ground. Anticipate slip and fall potential. If you were intending to climb Clear Creek under mostly snow free conditions, it would be worth considering moving your trip to a future date with more forgiving conditions. Feel free to give us a call if you’d like to discuss trip details and for updates on route conditions.

A myriad of enjoyable day hikes exist on the lower half of the mountain from all trailheads. With this past week's snow, however, you may find variable conditions on the lower mountain which warrant extra caution. Legitimate mountain hazards are primarily reserved to the upper portion of Mount Shasta. This includes rockfall, slips and falls, strong wind, and clouds obscuring visibility. There is no trail to the top of Mount Shasta.

All outfitter‑guide operations have ended trips on the south and west‑side routes. Avalanche Gulch (AG) is not recommended. Non-continuous snow exists, rockfall is plentiful, and it's not a safe or enjoyable climb right now.

North-side routes remain in okay condition, but they aren’t suitable for novice climbers. Glacier travel skills are required, expect rockfall, know where you are going, and how to mitigate overhead hazard through safe route choice.

Remember: there is no marked or sanctioned trail to the summit of Mount Shasta. Lines on any map represent suggested routes. Route‑finding decisions must be made in the field based on current conditions, your skill level, and your judgment. And as always, there are moments in mountaineering when, 'one must not fall'!

Don't forget to check the weather! To read the local weather discussion, click here.

Standard mountaineering precautions are advised. This means, but is not limited to:

climb early and descend early
never climb into bad weather
proper ice axe, crampons and helmet use
slip and fall hazard awareness
proper self-arrest technique
proper assessment of conditions for safe glissading using proper technique
rockfall awareness and limiting your time to locations with overead hazard
safe route finding and weather monitoring
monitoring personal skills and ability

Check out the Observations page for photos and recent updates.

Camping:

Below 9k feet is melted out and dry camping can be found. Please use existing bivy sites; do not create new ones. Shasta is famously windy, so be prepared and make sure tents are well-guyed. Carry proper wet-weather gear and warm insulating layers for snow travel. Bathrooms and water are available at the Shasta Alpine Hut (Horse Camp). Elsewhere, plan to melt snow for water and pack out human waste using wag bags (free at all trailheads). Some seasonal meltwater streams can be found on various routes.

Safety:

The higher you are on the mountain, the more challenging and risky rescues become. Helicopter operations are not possible in high winds or low visibility. Ground rescues require significant time and effort and expose many people to additional risk. Self-rescue skills are critical. If injured, descending—when possible—greatly improves your chances of effective rescue. Remaining stationary while waiting for rescuers can quickly lead to hypothermia. Always carry lightweight bivy gear and extra warm layers.

Safe adventures, everyone!

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Standard Reminders -

Check the weather and monitor during your climb. Don't get caught on the upper mountain if clouds are present. Sometimes it may not be storming persay, but clouds can still shroud the summit area. Set a turnaround time of noon.
On the upper half of the mountain, expect smooth and firm snow surfaces during the AM hours. A standard mountaineering ice axe, 12-point crampons and helmet are mandatory. Know how to use your ice axe for self-arrest. A slip and fall is certain without quick action.
Glissading - CONTROL YOUR SPEED - Make sure the snow is soft - Take off your crampons - Use proper technique and did we mention, CONTROL YOUR SPEED? Check out this video
Glacier routes are in good shape and crevasses are mostly open. Be mindful of weak snow bridges and carry glacier travel and rescue equipment if venturing into crevasse or bergshrund areas.
Rockfall - You can be the best climber in the world and still get hit by a rock. Sometimes it's luck of the draw. Wear a helmet properly, keep your head up and monitor for overhead hazard on the upper mountain. Yell, "ROCK!" if you see one to help warn others and of course, do your best to get out of the way
POOP! It is required to pack out your human waste within the Mount Shasta WILDERNESS. Free wag-bags are provided at all trailheads
RED TAPE: A summit pass, wilderness permit and wag bag are required to climb Mount Shasta. You can self-issue these items at all trailheads
PLEASE: Keep a clean camp, packout ALL of your micro-trash, coffee grounds, leftover pasta...ALL OF IT, please!

The summer trail from Bunny Flat to Horse Camp is melted out and should be used for all Avalanche Gulch, Casaval Ridge, West Face and Shastina routes.

Trailhead Access Information

All Wilderness trailheads are OPEN for the season and driveable

Note that Redbanks is NOT almost the top

Redbanks is the dividing line between the south side and upper mountain. At 12,500 feet, you still have 1,700 vertical feet to go. Use Redbanks as a solid check in point with yourself and your group: How is the weather? What time of day is it? How are we feeling? Once you commit to the upper mountain, conditions change, wind can be extreme, temps colder and cloud caps are possible limiting visibility. It catches climbers off guard every year. Make good decisions! Set a turn around time of noon on your summit day.

Bunny Flat:

Camping is allowed in the Bunny Flat parking lot, but please avoid setting up a large base camp. Keep it tight and leave room for others. Please do not have fires in the parking lot, unless you plan to use a fire pan, solo stove, etc. There are bathrooms and trash service, but no water is available.

The Sierra Club Alpine Hut (formerly Horse Camp) is OPEN. The composting toilets are OPEN and water is availible. Expect to melt snow for water elsewhere on the mountain. Bring extra stove fuel! Camping is permitted on Sierra Club land, but NOT in the hut. A nominal donation fee is asked if camping on their land ($3/bivy or $5/tent). For more information visit their website at https://www.sierraclubfoundation.org/shasta-alpine-hut-mount-shasta.

Visit our observations section for the latest photos, etc. Ridge routes are best climbed early season. They melt out quickly and become a loose, rocky mess.

You are REQUIRED to pack out your human waste within the Mount Shasta Wilderness. Please pickup a FREE human waste packout bag at the ranger stations or open trailheads before hitting the hill.

Please read all the information below to educate yourself on general information about what it takes to climb Mount Shasta safely. If you have further questions, don't hesitate to give us a call. We are not always in the office, but will respond as soon as we can: 530-926-9614 or email nicklaus.meyers@usda.gov.